Saw a hand-lettered sign for fry bread out on the highway, and the steering wheel turned itself down the exit. I found the place by following additional signs. Its the Indian Arts Center, and they have a lovely little store. No pictures inside, I'll explain that in an update. Got my frybread. Yum!
Update: Frybread is a wonderful thing to come out of a terrible era. When the indian tribes finally gave up, worn down by disease, starvation, murder, and constant harassment from the US Army and encroaching settlers, they became the responsibility of the US government. No longer able to feed themselves, they depended on foodstuffs, called commodities, doled out by the indian agent. It was a shitty deal, and to make matters worse the system was rife with corruption. They were supposed to get staples like flour and lard, beans and beef. Often they didn't get what they were supposed to receive, or it was of poor quality, spoiled and weevily. But they did the best they could. These people had never used wheat flour, and had to figure what to do with the stuff. They invented fry bread. It's a dough from flour, a little baking powder, some salt, lard and water, dropped into hot fat. It is terribly unhealthy, especially if eaten as a staple of the diet, but it is so good. Traditionally you sprinkle it with sugar or honey, or sometimes jam. An indian taco is a piece of frybread heaped with a mixture of meat and beans and whatever else you have handy. I prefer my frybread with honey. This one was fresh out of the fryer, so hot I had to let it sit a bit to cool down. It came with a generous cup of honey.
It's crispy on the outside and wonderfully chewy on the inside. I haven't had one in a long time.
This is the Indian Arts Center on Old Route 66 in New Laguna. I think New Laguna refers to the part of town that isn't the original pueblo, parts of which appear to be visible on a nearby hill. The sign welcomed picture taking outdoors, but asked that visitors refrain from taking pictures inside. I would have loved to have taken a few, because it was beautiful in there, with a sunken fireplace and many wonderful woven rugs, pottery and kachinas.
American Indian people tend to be a little touchy about having their picture taken. There is a traditional spiritual belief that a picture takes a little of a person's soul, making them vulnerable. I've met many people who subscribe to this feeling, but there may be another reason for the reluctance about having a picture taken. It must get old being treated like an object, some sort of living relic in your own native land. I suspect that some people cite personal belief as a way to ward off annoying strangers. I don't blame them. I don't care for having my picture taken much either, especially by strangers who don't ask (and yes it has happened in such a way as to make me feel objectified, so I have some sympathy for native peoples in this matter).
But native people like photographs too, and once they get to know and trust you, they will often allow you to have their picture. It's a sign of trust and respect, a gift really. The pictures I have of my native friends I treat with care and respect.
There is a little, stone walled courtyard outside, with a small table and some chairs so you can sit down and enjoy your frybread or indian taco.
A traditional stone oven is built into the corner, but this one is only for decorative purposes. The lady who made my frybread said some ladies have their ovens outdoors in the traditional way, but she cooks on a regular stove. It's still incredibly cool, though.
Nice mural on the front of the building. Kitchen to the left, with customers served through the window, door to the shop on the right.
I didn't buy anything (though I wanted to), but I promised to mention it on the blog. This place is a bit more authentic than the usual round of gift shops and souvenir huts littering Route 66. Worth a stop if you can spare a half hour or so.
The was a scenic pullout from the main highway with a view toward the old pueblo. Derelict vending huts lined the pullout, but nobody was there doing business. My camera couldn't capture the view very well. But I tried.
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